Preparing Your Quilt Top for Machine Quilting

1)     Make sure your quilt top is well pressed and seams are flattened.  Seams should be pressed flat, not pressed open.
2)     Trim all hanging threads from the back and edge.  Those threads will show through light areas of the quilt.
3)     Quilting does not correct piecing problems.  If there is fullness in the center or wavy borders you may wind up with
     pleats or puckers.  I do my best to correct such problems as I quilt, but I can’t guarantee that I can work out all problems. 
     To avoid wavy borders and pleats you must make your quilt fit your borders.  Measure through the middle of the quilt
     and cut your borders to that length.  You may need to ease the quilt to fit the borders.
4)     Quilts must be clean and free of offensive odors. ( I reserve the right to refuse Quilts with strong odors so that they may not              contaminate the work of other clients and my equipment).
5)      Identify the top of your quilt and backing with a safety pin if it has a directional print.
6)      If you want curved corners, please wait until the quilting is finished to cut the curves. Proper attachment of the quilt to the long-arm                 machine depends on straight, square corners.

Preparing the Backing for Machine Quilting
1)      The backing fabric should be 100% cotton fabric.  I know flat sheets are popular for backings, but I do not recommend
     them.  The tightly woven fabric makes it difficult for the needle to pierce the sheet.  If you really want to use a sheet,
      please be sure that the thread count is no more than 180 and wash and dry them at least five times.  I reserve the right
      to refuse backings that may cause tension problems or to charge a fee for the extra time necessary to work with such a               backing.
2)      Please remove the selvege edges from the backing. 
3)      If the backing fabric isn’t big enough, please use a half inch seam to piece the backing.  Press the seam open.  Make
     sure all fabric is the same length.
4)      The backing must be at least six inches larger in length and width than the top, but should not be more than ten inches
             larger in length and width.
5)      The backing should be squared up. 
6)      Please press the backing fabric.
7)      A busy fabric backing can hide stops and starts when doing custom or heirloom quilting.

Batting
1)      Batting should be cut to the same width as the backing, but may be longer than the backing
2)      I carry Hobbs Batting.  Price is dependent on the size needed. You may provide your own batting, but I recommend that you                     choose a good quality batting.  Inexpensive battings found in discount stores and big chain fabric stores are thin and uneven.               They may cause tension problems during the quilting process.  I reserve the right to refuse poor quality batting.

       * Please do not baste the quilt top, batting and backing together.   If you do I will have to charge you for the time it takes to separate the three layers. I need all three layers seperated so I can attach them individually to the frame.
          Your quilt will be insured while in my possession for the cost of the materials ONLY.

Shipping Your Quilt Top
1) Place your quilt top in a zippered plastic bag to ensure that if the box gets wet, your top will still be okay.
2) Do not ship your quilt top until you have reserved time for quilting with Angela.

Return shipping and insurance, for Eastern time zone, is $12 for the first quilt in the box and $7 for each additional quilt in the same box. It is $17 plus $7 for each additional quilt in all other time zones.

Please remember, you must have time reserved BEFORE you ship your quilt.


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Offering longarm machine quilting services using a stitch regulated, top of the line, APQS Millenium with Intelliquilter.
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